Art & Jewels    Fabulous Places    Great Sleeps   Dining & Entertainment

• The two most famous auction houses in the world, Sotheby's and Christie's.  For years, I took immense pleasure from auction catalogs with titles like, "Important Jewelry," and "Fabulous Jewels."  Almost at soon as I reached London, I decided I needed to see the real thing, so I went a preview of a Sotheby's "Jewels" auction. As I expected, I left the famous auction house with a copy of the catalog, but also with a memory I'll never forget - I had actually been able to try on three beautiful antique tiaras.  Alas, my favorite - a darling little wreath of green plique-â-jour enamel ivy leaves accented with diamonds and baroque pearl berries, circa 1890 - was just slightly out of my budget (sold for $12,548).  Maybe next time.

• The Queen's Gallery, was brought to life after the private chapel at Buckingham Palace faced a great deal of bomb damage during WWII.  Over the years, the area has become increasingly beautiful and the greatest art treasures of the British Royal Family now grace the Gallery for the benefit of all.  While the big draw may be the incredibly beautiful King George's state crown, which is just encrusted with diamonds, as well as the late Queen Victoria's best diamond necklace (try about 15 of the most beautiful LARGE collet diamonds you've ever seen) with matching earrings!  But don't forget about the art!  Looking at Gerard Terborch's 17th century painting, "The Letter," you feel you could reach out and grab the most beautiful silk dress worn by one of the subjects.  I've seen actual silks that couldn't hold a candle to the "faux" silk in this painting.  And the most touching portrait I have ever seen - Jean-Etienne Liotard's painting of little Princess Louise (King George IIIs sister), whose frail little body is exposed by her ill-fitting "adult" clothing, and her large blue eyes seem to cry out beyond the picture, "help me, love me."  It's heartbreaking and touching to look at, more so when you know that she died before reaching the age of 20.

• Dulwich Picture Gallery - London is jam-packed with world-class museums and art galleries absolutely stuffed with classic paintings, but this charming little gallery - well-hidden in the suburbs - is just wonderful.  Full of Gainsborough's and Van Dyck's, it is an absolute jewel.

• Sir John Soane's Museum - This has to be one of the most diverse personal collections of art and artifacts I have ever seen.  From the immense sarcophagus of Pharaoh Seti I (d. 1279 BC), which is carved from a single piece of limestone and engraved in its entirety with hieroglyphics that tell the story of the soul's passage through the underworld, to the tiniest of ancient Roman architectural fragments, Britain received a treasure trove when the collection was bequeathed to the Nation by Sir John Soane on his death.  If you can't make it to the actual museum in London, at least take a look at the web site.

• The Wallace Collection - Another amazing personal collection bequeathed to the British Nation when the family line died out.  Instead of antiquities as in the Soane Museum, the Wallace Collection boasts more modern antiques, but equally as amazing.  Since the original collectors, the Marquesses of Hertford, were self-professed Francophiles immediately following the French Revolution, the collection consists largely of the possessions of - you guessed it - the Kings Louis and their respective wives, daughters and lovers.  And what good taste the ancien règime had before losing their heads Definitely worth an afternoon's visit. 

• Apsley House - Wellington Museum - I was a bit surprised with this former residence of Britain's hero, the 1st Duke of Wellington, although pleasantly so. I was expecting just a historic home full of "recreated" rooms, etc., but the house, technically a branch of the V&A, houses some wonderful pieces of art and artifacts, much of which could be considered the spoils of war.  Among my favorites are: the lovely marble "Head of a Dancer" by my favorite sculptor Antonio Canova and "A Musical Party" by Pieter de Hooch. Highly amusing is the gigantic (over 11 feet tall) marble sculpture of a naked Napoleon Bonaparte.  A strategically placed fig leaf hardly hides the fact that all dimensions were probably highly flattering to the subject. Napoleon himself didn't like the sculpture because he thought it was "too athletic."

• Victoria & Albert Museum - This museum requires a substantial amount of time, even multiple visits, to fully appreciate it, but is well worth it. One of my favorite special exhibits has been "Tiaras: Past and Present" exhibit (see photo of one of Queen Victoria's tiaras at left), which was mouth-watering. I have too many favorites among the permanent installations to name, but the historic clothing really brings the past to life.

• Other worthwhile stops in London include: The Tate Gallery, which, ever since the collection of modern art moved to the Tate Modern, is the home of an excellent collection of primarily pre-modern (1500 to 1900) art; The National Gallery and its sister museum, my personal favorite, The National Portrait Gallery; Somerset House - a place rich with history and home to such diverse institutions as the Inland Revenue (similar to the US's IRS) and the charming Gilbert Collection and the Hermitage Rooms; a little place called the British Museum, home to such national treasures such as the Elgin Marbles and the Rosetta Stone; the Cabinet War Rooms - a bit touristy, but interesting because it has so carefully preserved a very significant moment in time; The Museum of London, which traces the history of London over half a million years, with particular focus on what life was like before, during and after its pre-Roman days, when it was known as Londinium.

Great Sleeps

Melrose House, London - This charming B&B in greater London, not far from the former location of the Crystal Palace, is everything I could ask for in a home away from home. Visit the Melrose House web site to learn more.

The Albany, Bath (England) - Just minutes from all the sights of Bath, I felt immediately at home at the Albany, thanks to the graciousness of the owners and the charm of the house.

Château des Riffets, Normandy (France) - The perfect place to enjoy Norman hospitality and comfort.  View a picture and learn more about at Travel Album, France.  

Oxenham Arms Hotel, Devon (England) - My one and only disappointment with this charming Twelfth-Century Inn in tiny South Zeal (near Okehampton), is that I didn't see any ghosts from its 800+ year history. Other than that, everything about this charming inn was perfect, including the traditional English pub and the cozy main lounge with its large granite fireplace.

Whitfield Farm Cottage, Dorset (England) - A 200-year-old thatched cottage in the Dorset countryside with every amenity you could ask for - what more can I say?

Palace House Hotel, Burnley, Lancashire (England) - Another historic house, this time Georgian, is the former home of the town's first Mayor, as well as the Bishops of Burnley. It is family-run and has been beautifully restored.

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